OTS Map vs Full Map

Stock mapping (stage 0) INFO & ISSUES

FREQUENT KNOCK COUNTS

I had datalogs with 10,000+ rows of knock during a 10-minute log just cruising around below 4,500 rpm.

LARGE KNOCK COUNTS

I had -7 FLKC on the stock map on 91 octane. Randomly throwing -10 FBKC is a fairly common occurrence.

FREQUENT DAM DROPS

Frequent DAM drops and are extremely common on the stock map on 91 octane.

AGGRESSIVE THROTTLE MAPPING

The stock throttle mapping is one of the main issues with the stock tune.
Subaru mapped throttle very aggressively. By the time the pedal is pressed 35%, the throttle is 100% open. This means the last 65% of pushing the pedal does absolutely nothing.
This aggressive throttle mapping makes the car extremely difficult to drive at low speeds. IE, trying to creep through a parking lot and you barely push the pedal, but the throttle opens 50%. This makes the car surge forward more than you want, then fall on its face as you barely let off the pedal, because the throttle closed back to 10%.
The aggressive throttle mapping also causes worse mpg because the car is constantly in and out of boost.

REV HANG

The idle airflow mapping is setup to make the rpm "hang" when you let off the throttle.
Rev hang is put in place to reduce emissions.

MONITORING THE STAGE 0 DATA

The stage 0 map on the AP is the stock mapping. Loading the stage 0 map allows you to utilize the AP gauges and datalogging while on the stock map. I suggest everyone run the stage 0 map for a week or two while stock. Monitoring the DAM, FBKC, FLKC, AF Correction and AF Learning while the vehicle is stock will show you what the car was doing the whole time before you had an Anxiety Port. This knowledge is fundamental in determining what's normal and what's not.
The dynamic advance multiplier (DAM) will be reset to the initial 0.6875 value on every engine start as long as the DAM did not drop below this value previously. If the DAM drops below 0.6875 on the drive cycle, the lower DAM value will persist on the next start-up. If the DAM rises to 0.9375 during the drive cycle, it will revert to 0.6875 on start-up. If the DAM reaches 1.0 during the drive cycle, it will remain 1.0 for the next start.
Most people never run the stage 0 map and have no baseline of data, but continually comment that "Cobb OTS maps suck" or "Get off that Cobb map or your engine is going to blow up". This logic makes no sense to me. How can one think that Cobb is so incompetent that they release OTS maps to the public that significantly increase the failure rate of the vehicle, but at the same time trust that they can properly reverse engineer Subaru, Ford, GTR and Porsche ECU's?

Overall opinion on ots maps

The stock map is the best example of an OTS map. It's specifically designed to be able to run on any car, in any location on the planet, utilizing any octane. The stock mapping is setup to make the most power possible on 93 oct, but it is impossible to make a map that makes max power on 93 oct, but does not knock excessively on 91 oct. This is where the knock control system comes into play. The cars are basically setup to autotune the ignition timing based on the octane of fuel in the tank. The Dynamic Advance Multiplier (DAM) is Subaru's octane modifier. Other OEM's like Chevy have tables specifically labelled "High Octane" and "Low Octane" and the ECU will switch between them based on the engine noise (knock) being detected. When the DAM decreases the ignition timing is globally reduced in all high load areas.
The main issue with the stock map (or any map that has an oscillating DAM) is that it is constantly trying to run more ignition timing than the octane can handle, which keeps causing the car to knock.
A car that is custom tuned for its specific location and octane should experience very few DAM drops over the course of a year. The more aggressive a tune is for the given octane, the more it will knock and the more it will drop the DAM.
"Bad gas" is not a common issue. It takes gas 8-12 weeks to go bad sitting in a tank. A gas station in Death Valley in the middle of no where may have a perpetual issue with bad gas. The shell station in the middle of a major city does not have constant bad gas issues.
It is impossible to ensure the mapping works well for a particular vehicle without looking at data.
The whole purpose of my job is to analyze datalogs for your specific vehicle, in your specific location, in your specific climate, on the roads you specifically drive on, exactly how you drive, utilizing the specific fuel in your location. My job exists for a reason. If OTS maps worked, I wouldn't have a job.

How the DAM dropping effects ignition timing at wide open throttle.

OTS EXPECTATIONS

I would ONLY recommend purchasing an OTS map if you don't plan on modding any further.
If you plan on modding further, then the regular e-toon is much better value since re-toons are discounted. OTS MAP RETOONS ARE NOT DISCOUNTED. This means that if you add parts down the line and you want another OTS map, then you just purchase the appropriate OTS map again.
Many people expect too much from these cars with no mods or very few mods that don't really add much power.
more parts = more power and less knock
less parts = less power and more knock
Will my car be optimized for my parts? No, it's an OTS map.
After 17 years, I still spend 2 hours on the dyno on a stage2 car. If OTS maps just worked for every car, we wouldn't need to toon them.
The best example I can give is having 2 FA WRX's on the same day. They were the same year and literally had the same mods down to the brands. As an experiment I copied the tables from the first car into the map for the second car and did a pull. The second car made 40 whp less on the same mapping as the first car.
If you have a FBO car with an intercooler and are purchasing an OTS map, you will be leaving power on the table.
OTS maps should be reserved for cars with an intake and exhaust. If you have mods beyond that, you should really get a full e-toon to maximize the gains from the parts you purchased.
If you live in a state that solely carries ethanol free gas, you should get a full toon as your gas quality is poor and will require multiple revisions to get rid of your knock. If you live in an extreme climate or elevation, you should get a full toon.
My OTS maps are designed to improve drivability and decrease knock.
My OTS maps will NOT make more power than other tooner's OTS maps. That is not the goal of my tooning strategy. My tooning strategy is to provide safety and reliability. Other companies simply try to squeeze the most power they can out of a single 3rd gear pull while leaving absolutely no safety margin in mind for customers in hot climates or areas with hills. Other companies have their pump gas OTS maps as lean as I run my cars on ethanol.
So I will simply never make as much power as their OTS maps. But their OTS maps also knock like a mofo in temperatures over 75 degrees and if you beat on the car at all.
The stock intercooler simply can't support high boost and that lean an AFR. So if you're looking for the most power. I'm not your guy. If you're looking for better gas mileage and smooth reliable power. Then I'm your man.
The main issue with trying to make a one-size-fits-all map is that fuel quality and environment are drastically different across the country. This is why people see drastically different results with the Cobb OTS maps and OTS maps in general.
Lets look at one of the issues, fuel quality. Most states utilize 10% ethanol gasoline, but there are many states across the country that also carry ethanol free or 0% ethanol gasoline. IMO this is one of the big reasons for high knock counts on OTS maps. There is a huge difference between 93e10 and 93e0. 93e0 makes considerably less power than 93e10 and it actually toons like 91e10.
You can use this website to check which gas stations in your city/state carry ethanol free gas so you know which ones to stay away from.
https://www.pure-gas.org/
Just click on your state, then scroll down to your city and any gas station listed carries ethanol free gas and you should avoid those stations.
If your car is already knocking and experience DAM drops, you can't expect the car to knock less AND make more power.
To get rid of knock timing must be reduced, boost reduced or the AFR made richer and all of these things will lead to making less power. So you simply can't have the expectation of a knock free car that makes 300 hp with no mods.
The way to decrease knock AND add power is to allow the engine to operate more efficiently, this is done by adding parts to the car that will increase the engines efficiency.
All the parts that will accomplish this are listed in my FAQ https://phatbottituning.com/15%2B-wrx-recommended-parts

OTS Mapping - Stage What

Stock mapping (stage 0) INFO & ISSUES

IS MY CAR GONNA BLOW UP ON AN OTS MAP

Overall opinion on ots maps

OTS EXPECTATIONS

Reviews

OTS Mapping - Stage What

Stock mapping (stage 0) INFO & ISSUES

IS MY CAR GONNA BLOW UP ON AN OTS MAP

Overall opinion on ots maps

OTS EXPECTATIONS

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Reviews

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