I do NOT recommend installing ANY parts outside of a calibration. Ever. End of story.
The only benefit is "cost saving" by not purchasing another calibration. A calibration is made for the specific mods and condition the vehicle was in during the calibration process. When you are removing and reinstalling parts you can have install errors, induce a leak or any number of other issues. There may have even been a small leak or some other minor issue during the initial calibration, which may get corrected during the install of new parts. So there is a chance the car may run considerably different than it did before.
If you put the car back together and something is off, you are going to email your calibrator with questions and wanting him to look at logs, which he will charge for.
The best practice is to gather all your parts, install them all at the same time and pay for a single calibration. I know many people can't afford to buy everything all at once, but for most stock turbo mods anything you would have to buy would accrue minimal interest on a credit card compared to paying for multiple calibrations within a 12 month span. The interest accrued over 12 months on a $3,000 balance at 30% is $418. If you would pay $600 for a calibration, then $400 for another calibration 12 months later for added parts, the cost is $1,000. If you put the extra parts on a credit card you would pay $600 + $418 over 12 months, virtually identical cost.
The effects of changing exhaust components can vary greatly depending on the complete modlist and which component(s) are changing, but these are the general concepts.
Can exhaust components be run without any updates, yes. Is there any guarantee that the boost and fuel trims will stay in check and no CELs will pop, no.
Do I recommend installing exhaust components without an update, no.
All of the differences between vehicles is the whole reason OTS maps don't work very well and that we calibrate the cars in the first place.
The gear ratios in the ECU need to be updated via an updated map.
Running an intercooler without an updated calibration is mostly pointless. Almost all the gains from an intercooler come from being able to safely run more boost, timing and a leaner AFR without knocking. There are many different intercoolers with different cores, different pressure drops, different efficiencies, etc.
Can an intercooler be run without an updated calibration, yes. Is there any guarantee that the boost and fuel trims will stay in check, no.
Do I recommend installing an intercooler without an update, no.
The stock boost controller is a 2-port EBCS and operates at 10 hertz.
The aftermarket EBCS' are 3-port and operate at 30 hertz.
The variation in the frequency between the two solenoids is the reason you get the flutter sound with an aftermarket EBCS. The flutter can be lessened by adjusting the frequency.
Do I recommend installing an EBCS without an update, no.
Can an AOS or CC's be installed without any updates, yes. I have tested both the street and comp AOS' and neither changed the fueling or boost by a significant amount.
BUT, like it says in the first paragraph on this page, installing any part opens yourself up to induce leaks or other issues. If an AOS line is kinked, hooked up backwards, PCV hooked up backwards, PCV failed, etc..then these issues will not be easily visible by indications on the AP gauge screen.
Do I recommend installing a AOS/CC's without an update, no.
This plot illustrates the variance between the Mass Air Flow (MAF) scaling of the stock intake vs ETS intake vs CobbSF intake.
2016 STi OEM intake vs AEM intake. AFR leans out 30% at 4400 rpm and it knocks all the way redline.
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