Good HP Per Dollar Mods

Stock turbo SETUPS

HP/$$ Setup #1 - Stock + e30 Tune (300 tq, 300 whp)

e30 Benefits

- significantly reduced Feedback Knock Correction (FBKC)

- significantly reduced Fine Learning Knock Correction (FLKC)

- stop 99.99% of DAM drops

- drastically smoother power delivery

- decrease Exhaust Gas Temperatures (EGT's) by 200-400 degrees over the whole powerband

This setup will make 280-310 tq, 280-310 whp. Broad power ranges are used due to differences in elevation, temperature, vehicle mileage, wheel/tire weights/sizes, etc.

e30 OTS mapping or full mapping available at the links below. The difference between the two products is thoroughly gone over in the product description of the OTS map.

e30 OTS Map - https://phatbottituning.com/e-toons/ols/products/2015-wrx-stage1-ots

e30 Full E-TOON - https://phatbottituning.com/store/ols/products/2015-wrx-e30

Pump Gas Setup #1 - Garrett TMIC + Grimmspeed/Cobb EBCS

This is a nice simple setup. These mods address the major downfalls of the car and will greatly reduce the cruise knock and make the boost control better for overall smoother power delivery.

This setup will make 260-280 tq and 240-260 whp.

Ethanol (e60) Setup #1 - TMIC, EBCS, DW300c, Cobb Flex Fuel

Same setup as above with DW300c and Cobb Flex Fuel Kit. You will be required to mix ethanol and pump gas to reach the desired ethanol content of e60. This is due to limitations of the stock high pressure fuel pump.

Cobb Fuel Pressure Sensor Kit (part # 315650 ) is not a requirement but is nice to have to be able to monitor the low pressure fuel pump pressure. This sensor is essential in troubleshooting fueling issues. Not all fuel pressure issue will show up in the high pressure fuel pump pressure data. The low pressure can still drop and the high pressure can look fine.

This setup will make around 300-325 tq and 300-325 hp on e60.

Advanced Setup Pump Gas - EBCS, TMIC, TBE, Intake

The stock intercoolers on these cars is simply not good. The intercooler and exhauast work in conjunction with each other. If you free up the exhaust, but leave the stock intercooler, the charge temps will still be high and the car will still be knock prone. If you change the intercooler, but leave the exhaust stock, the charge temps will be lower but the exhaust will be plugged up creating higher back pressure and hotter exhaust gas temps. The exhaust and intercooler really need to be done at the same time to see maximum benefit.

The Grimmspeed TMIC may be replaced with a Process West Verticooler, Garrett TMIC, PRL FMIC or ETS FMIC. For the ETS FMIC get the 4 inch core and this gasket to put in place of the paper gasket on the turbo outlet flange Mr. Gasket #738G https://www.jegs.com/i/Mr-Gasket/720/738G/10002/-1

This setup will make around 300-320 tq and 280-300 whp.

Advanced Setup Ethanol (e60) - add DW300c + Cobb Flex Fuel

Advanced Setup Ethanol (e85) - add Nostrum High Pressure Fuel Pump

This will allow you to run straight e85 and not have to mix down to e60. The car will make the same power, just avoid mixing. IMO, it is not worth the $1000 for the convenience of not having to mix down to e60. The car will make the same power on e85 as it does on e60 and if you live east of Arizona, your ethanol content drops down to e52-e70 in the winter anyway. So you can't even run full e85 for half the year.

So if you live east of Arizona, you need to take into consideration the time of year you buy and tune for this hpfp. You need to ensure that your state/city are out of the winter month ethanol and that you can actually get full e85. Basically no point in getting tuned for this hpfp in the winter since the ethanol content won't get over e70.

Bypass Valves, External Wastegates, Turbo Inlets

These really aren't necessary on stock turbo setups. Especially the external wastegates.

UPGRADED TURBO SETUPS

Stock Location 1 - SoCal v3 (425-440 whp)

Mods that should be considered requirements for upgraded turbos

- FMIC's (PRL or ETS)

- The stock internal wastegate won't control boost very well, so upgrading to a Turbosmart wastegate is required with this turbo. I recommend the Turbosmart 14 psi actuator along with having Reuben port the wastegate hole to prevent any boost creep issues.

- Meth injection. The cars are out of fuel on the stock turbo. If you want to make more power, you need more fuel. AEM Meth Injection v2 (VP M5 Methanol, 500cc Nozzle)(Part # 30-3300)

Stock Location 2 - FP Blue (450-500 whp)

Mods that should be considered requirements for upgraded turbos

- FMIC's (PRL or ETS)

- Meth injection. The cars are out of fuel on the stock turbo. If you want to make more power, you need more fuel. AEM Meth Injection v2 (VP M5 Methanol, 500cc Nozzle)(Part # 30-3300)

Engine Builds

You must look closely at engine ratings. IAG's stage2 block is only rated at 600 CRANK hp. That translates to 450 WHEEL hp if you use 25% drivetrain loss. Choose wisely.

Fueling Issues: Motec vs Port Injection vs Meth Injection

1 - Motec + port injection: basically $13,000 - $15,000 and is the only proper solution to the fueling issues. The Motec can control the direct and port injectors correctly. Even though this is very expensive and out of most people's budget, it is the only proper way to add extra fuel to the car. Anything else is a lesser solution and has multiple downfalls.

2 - Port injection + Split Second Controller: $6000 this option is also very expensive and has multiple downfalls. The split second controller is an auxilliary device and does not talk to the ECU. One of the main issues with this solution is that you are paying a premium to install expensive fuel injectors on the car to atomize the fuel. But the split second controller only batch fires the injectors. This means that all 4 injectors are spraying all the time in a "batch". So even when cylinders are on the wrong stroke those injectors are still spraying on top of the closed intake valve. So all that money you just paid to atomize the fuel is going to waste puddling fuel on top of the valve.

3 - Meth injection (pre-throttle): $500 - $1500 this is the cheapest solution. There are many different brands and variations of methanol injection kits with all different levels of failsafes and bells and whistles. I will not be going into those here. Meth injection has multiple downfalls. It is an auxilliary system just like the port injection and it doesn't talk to the ECU. While failsafes can be added, they are still not as good as everything being in a factory ECU or one unit like the Motec. Another issue is the meth distribution to each cylinder. We have no way of knowing how much meth is making it to each cylinder. At first the boxer design may seem like it's really bad for meth injection, but if you look at if compared to an inline 6 cylinder where the meth would be siphoned off to 5 cylinders before getting to the 6th, our center entrance throttle body and split manifold is actually no where near as bad in comparison. I do not recommend port meth as it can cause issues running extremely rich after throttle lift because port meth is batch fired just like the port injectors. I was recently made aware of this port meth kit and controller that can pulse the meth nozzles based on rpm and firing order (at least i think, only briefly looked into it). Obviously haven't had a chance to test it yet, but looks very promising. https://torqbyte.com/collections/products/products/cm5-lts-water-methanol-injection-controller

If you're going to spend the money on port injection, then spend the money on the motec to at least control it correctly.

Motec

The motec is a full stand alone ECU and is basically $13,000 - $15,000 and is the only proper solution to the fueling issues. The Motec can control the direct and port injectors correctly. Even though this is very expensive and out of most people's budget, it is the only proper way to add extra fuel to the car. Anything else is a lesser solution and has multiple downfalls.

Good HP PER $$ Setups