I do NOT recommend installing ANY parts outside of a toon. It is never a good idea. Ever. End of story.
The only benefit is "cost saving" by not purchasing another toon. A toon is made for the specific mods and condition the vehicle was in during the tooning process. When you are removing and reinstalling parts you can have install errors, induce a leak or a number other issues. There may have even been a small leak or some other minor issue during the initial toon, which may get corrected during the install of new parts. So there is a chance the car may run considerably different than it did before.
If you put the car back together and something is off, you are going to email your tooner and start asking questions and wanting him to look at logs, which he will likely charge for. So in the end the best practice is to gather all your parts and install them all at the same time and get tooned once. I know many people can't afford to buy everything all at once, but for most stock turbo mods anything you would have to buy would accrue minimal interest on a credit card compared to paying for multiple toons.
Pretty much the only part that I would say can be installed without a toon is a catback exhaust.
All of the differences between vehicles is the whole reason OTS maps don't work very well and that we toon the cars in the first place.
The gear ratios in the ECU need to be updated via an updated map.
How do I know if I need additional tuning?
Do I recommend installing an intake outside of a toon?
The stock boost controller is a 2-port EBCS and operates at 10 hertz.
The aftermarket EBCS' are 3-port and operate at 30 hertz.
The variation in the frequency between the two solenoids is the reason you get the flutter sound with an aftermarket EBCS. The flutter can be tooned out by adjusting the frequency.
Do I recommend installing an EBCS outside of a toon, no.
Running an intercooler without a toon is mostly pointless. Almost all the gains from an intercooler come from being able to toon the car with more boost, timing and a leaner AFR. There are many different intercoolers with different cores, different pressure drops, different efficiencies, etc etc.
Can an intercooler be run without a toon, yes. Is there any guarantee that the boost and fuel trims will stay in check, no.
Do I recommend installing an intercooler outside of a toon, no.
Headers change the diameter, length and shape of the piping that is feeding the turbine wheel. The turbine wheel is what drives the compressor wheel and ultimately makes boost.
Can a header be run without a toon, yes. Is there any guarantee that the boost and fuel trims will stay in check, no.
Do I recommend installing a header outside of a toon, no.
Can an AOS or CC's be installed without a toon, yes. I have tested both the street and comp AOS' and neither changed the fueling or boost by a significant amount.
BUT, like it says in the first paragraph on this page, installing any part opens yourself up to induce leaks or other issues. If an AOS line is kinked, hooked up backwards, PCV hooked up backwards, PCV failed, etc etc...then these issues will not be easily visible by indications on the AP gauge screen.
Do I recommend installing a AOS/CC's outside of a toon, no.
This plot illustrates the variance between the Mass Air Flow (MAF) scaling of the stock intake vs ETS intake vs CobbSF intake.
2016 STi OEM intake vs AEM intake. AFR leans out 30% at 4400 rpm and it knocks all the way redline.
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