The Cobb AP is needed to be able to tune the car. It is the electronic device that allows you to flash a tune to the ECU, change maps, adjust launch control, adjust flat foot shifting, monitor 6 gauges, and see check engine lights.
Flex fuel is the easiest and cheapest way to make power on these cars. The car will easily pick up 60whp going from 91 octane to an e50 blend. The stock fuel pump is not ethanol compatible and will eventually fail, so it needs to be replaced with a DW300c unit. The DW300c should be installed utilizing the stock spacer and 2 o-rings.
Flex fuel allows you to run anything from pump gas to e60 on 1 map, no map switching required. There are 2 sets of tables in the ECU, low ethanol content tables and high ethanol content tables. The car will be tuned on "low ethanol" pump gas which is usually 10% ethanol, then it will be tuned on "high ethanol" e60 (or full e85 if you have the Nostrum or IBR HPFP). You can picture the low and high as the bookends of the tune. Once the tune is complete, it will basically "slide" between these 2 endpoints based on the ethanol content.
Yes, the AEM340 pump is also fine. The LPFP is required for flex fuel.
In ranking of keeping contaminants out of the engine
1 - Radium catch cans
2 - IAG race/comp
3 - IAG street
I usually recommend the Street for daily driven vehicles simply because it is a maintenance free item. But from a performance standpoint of keeping oil and fuel vapors out of the engine, catch cans are ultimately the best solution.
If you are running an upgraded turbo, then the comp/race setup or catch cans should be considered a requirement. The increased crank pressure can cause the street aos valves to fail which can ultimately lead to engine failure.
AOS help eliminate carbon buildup on the valves. Does an AOS require a tune, STREET no, RACE yes. Always best to have your tuner check logs post install to make sure you didn't induce a leak or cause a problem during the install.
After AOS install it is imperative to bleed the coolant system as you have introduced air bubbles which can cause overheating.
All AOS’s suffer from “sludge”. They attempt to prevent this by running coolant through the can to heat the system, but the return line is not heated. When the temp drops below 40*, moisture will accumulate in the return line and then mix with the oil and form the sludge pictured below. This sludge is extremely common in cold temperatures and even more prevalent when using e85. Running an AOS requires you to check this and either clean or replace the hose. Many people run 3,000 mile oil change intervals due to this sludge and fuel dilution, but I took my car out to 8,000 miles several times and the Used Oil Analysis always came back excellent.
basically put the funnel in, fill halfway with coolant, start car, let the car heat up until the fans turn on, then turn on heater, then blip throttle until bubbles stop. let car cool with funnel in place. Restart car and repeat one more time
The PW Verticooler, Cobb and Mishimoto Race are the largest TMIC's available, all 3 coming in at 600 inches^3. The Cobb is the cheapest of the 3 coming in at $795. It is $950 with the charge pipe.
The Garrett TMIC is the best bang for the buck option for TMIC's at $640. It is cheaper than all the smaller options and performs much better. So there is absolutely zero reason to buy a TXS, Mishi Street, AVO, or PW KhanaCooler.
Best performance: Cobb TMIC w/ charge pipe ($950)
Best bang for your buck: Garrett TMIC no charge pipe ($640)
Not worth buying: TXS, Mishi Street, AVO, PW KhanaCooler
These are the 4 largest FMIC's available for the 15+ WRX:
GS = 1,188 in^3, no bumper trimming, $1750
ETS = 1,182 in^3, IDK about bumper trimming, $1940
AMS = 1,169 in^3, requires bumper trimming, $1500
Cobb = 1,056 in^3, no bumper trimming, $1920
Cobb is the only CARB approved one ATM.
For FMIC's that do not retain the stock o-ring at the turbo outlet, I recommend using this gasket instead of the provided paper gaskets. The paper gaskets almost ALWAYS LEAK unless the pipes are perfectly aligned and seated perfectly. If the link is broken it is Mr. Gasket #738G https://www.jegs.com/i/Mr-Gasket/720/738G/10002/-1
EBCS will produce a smoother boost curve and hold boost better in the midrange, thus picking up hp/tq through having a better and more consistent boost curve. Should be considered a required mod...especially with a catless exhaust system. Can I run an EBCS without a tune, yes if you stay out of boost. Best to coordinate with your tuner and have a map ready to load before you even begin the install. Always best to have your tuner check logs post install to make sure you didn't induce a leak or cause a problem during the install.
GS and Cobb EBCS are preferred.
Perrin EBCS installs in conjunction with the stock BCS. More vacuum lines and different mapping than the GS and Cobb units. GS and Cobb provide a cleaner install and make my life easier since the mapping is the same.
Company23 anti surge EBCS is not necessary.
The purpose of changing an intake on a MAF based car is to stop from maxing out the MAF voltage. This is accomplished by making the piping larger that houses the MAF sensor. So basically the MAF sensor is moved out of the airflow. As a result most aftermarket intakes will have higher AF Correction and Learning since the sensor is actually in less of the flow. Almost all of the intakes utilize a MAF extension cable which seem to be prone to getting moisture into them which causes erratic fueling.
I prefer the Grimmspeed Intake because it has a stopper on the MAF sensor flange to butt the filter up against. So everyone installs the filter in the same spot. All other intakes have "floating" filters, meaning that each customer can install the filter in a different spot on the intake pipe....this causes fueling issues and makes troubleshooting more difficult (and by more difficult I mean nearly impossible). On other intakes moving the placement of the filter by just a 1/4 inch can change the fueling by 20-30%, which makes troubleshooting very difficult.
Intakes without boxes will make you lose power. Full write-up here https://phatbottituning.com/intakes-without-boxes
An intake would be one of the last mods I would buy. The hp gains are minimal on 91 octane, the increase in fueling corrections and possibility of MAF extension cable issues all outweigh the minimal gains IN MY OPINION. Do they add power, yes. Do they smooth out power delivery, yes. I just simply recommend other parts first. If increasing turbo and bypass valve noises are your goal, then I would recommend getting an intake over a bypass valve or a blow off valve.
I would personally put the money towards a good intercooler or flex fuel before buying an intake. If you already have all those parts, then yes an intake will add power and smooth out certain parts of the power band.
Can I run an intake without a tune? I WOULD NEVER RUN AN INTAKE WITHOUT A TUNE.
Despite Boomba's bubble video, the stock bpv works perfectly fine. The stock bpv has a pressure relief hole in it. It is designed to leak on purpose. HOWEVER, stock ones need to be upgraded when dealing with larger than stock turbos. It should be considered a requirement to have a BPV with an aftermarket turbo. It is simply not a common issue for the stock bpv's to fail with stock turbos. The stock bpv has been very reliable on stock turbo setups. But if you must get one I would suggest the Cobb Version 2 BPV. A BPV would be one of the last mods I would buy. I would put the money towards an intercooler or AOS before buying a BPV.
Can I run a BPV without a tune, yes. The BPV will only make a difference if your stock BPV was leaking really bad. Always best to have your tuner check logs post install to make sure you didn't induce a leak or cause a problem during the install. There is no specific tuning for a BPV or a BOV. The only time a real issue can occur when swapping a BPV/BOV is if your car was previously tuned with a leaking valve and your tune has the wastegate duty cycle increased to compensate for the leaking valve. If you put a valve on that doesn't leak then your car will overboost. The problem with detecting bypass valve leaks is that they are part of a closed system, so if they leak boost they simply leak it back to the intake tract so it's really not detectable in the log because it won't change the fueling. As you see from Boomba's bubble video the stock unit already leaks, but it's so minor it doesn't play a role in any power loss and it's designed that way. A blow off valve leak on the other hand will alter the air fuel ratio and is easily seen in a log.
A blow off valve should never be used on a Mass Air Flow fueled vehicle.
A blow off valve simply decreases the performance of the vehicle. The purpose of a bypass valve is to bypass the pressurized air when the throttle closes back to in front of the turbo to help keep the compressor wheel spinning during shifts.
A blow off valve is taking this feature away. So the turbo will spin down more when shifting. The other major downside to a blow off valve on a MAF based car is that it's releasing air that was measured by the MAF sensor...so when that air is released, it makes the car run rich because the ECU is still injecting fuel for air that's no longer there. This will prematurely foul the plugs and make your gas mileage go down because you're just wasting fuel every time you let off the throttle. When the air is released you will notice your AF Correction and/or AF Learning go to very high negative values to try and compensate for the car running extremely rich. If the rich condition happens at or near idle it can cause the car to sputter and or stall. This can NOT be tuned out most of the time. The solution is to pre-load the BOV more by tightening the allen bolt on top of the BOV, using a higher pressure spring in the BOV, or by adding washers below the springs to increase the preload. If the BOV is not adjustable, then remove it and light it on fire and put the stock BPV back on the car.
An upgraded bypass valve should be considered a requirement when upgrading the turbo. The stock unit can't handle higher boost pressures and may begin to leak.
Racing on 91 octane, or any pump gas in general, is just asking for trouble. I highly recommend getting a flex fuel or race gas tune for track days, canyon runs or any type of hard abuse. If you can't afford that then add in 4-5 gallons of 100 oct unleaded and fill the rest up with 91. If you don't have 100 oct available you can also put in 3 gallons of e85 and fill the rest of the tank with 91. Both the e85 and 100 oct will add knock protection and make the car much safer. You should always race on a full tank of gas to avoid fuel starvation. There is a reason it's called RACE gas.
Even regular pump gas is not created equal. While most stations across the US have 10% ethanol in the pump gas, lots of stations still use ethanol free gas (e0). Ethanol free gas is worse than e10 gas. The ethanol adds knock protection and allows the cars to make more power. You can check which gas stations in your city/state carry e0 on this website https://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=CA so you can stay away from them.
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