2015+ WRX Parts Recommendations

Q:  I just got a 2015+ WRX, what is the best/cheapest/easiest way to make power?

A:  ETHANOL, ETHANOL, ETHANOL.  A stock car on an e30 tune will make more power (320whp) than a full bolt on pump gas car (300whp).   A stock car with Cobb Flex Fuel and dw300c can make 330-350whp.  Once you are able to run ethanol the parts matter way less.  These cars love ethanol since they are high compression, that's why they pick up so much more hp than an EJ does on e85.  An EJ with pick up 30-40whp on e85, an FA will pick up 80-100whp on e60. 

Quicklist

• Cobb AccessPort and Cobb Flex Fuel
• IAG TGV, EGR, Street Air Oil Separator (AOS)
• IBR Complete TGV
• PRL FMIC (price is so close to GS or PW TMIC, that getting a FMIC makes more sense)
• Grimmspeed Turbo Back Exhaust (TBE), GS Electronic Boost Control Solenoid (EBCS), GS Top Mount InterCooler (TMIC)
• Dw300c fuel pump
• Nameless or Boomba ByPass Valve (BPV)
• Grimmspeed Intake
• Killer B Header w/ tial external wastegates (8 psi springs)
• ACT Heavy Duty Steet Disk  SB11-HDSS = 340-350 ft*lbs tq capacity
• ACT HD Extreme Street SB11-XTSS = 390-400 ft*lbs tq capacity
• ACT 6 Puck HD Rigid SB11-HDR6 = 430-440 ft*lbs tq capacity
• ACT 6 Puck Extreme Race Rigid SB11-XTR6 = 490-500 ft*lbs tq capacity
• ACT 4 Puck HD Rigid SB11-HDR4 = 430-440 ft*lbs tq capacity
• ACT 4 Puck Extreme Rigid SB11-XTR4 = 490-500 ft*lbs tq capacity

** I do NOT recommend a catless exhaust unless you get an external wastegates  Without the ext wg's you chance overboosting via boost creep, which causes the car to run out of fuel, lean out, and ultimately knock knock boom. 

YOU DON'T SAVE MONEY BUYING CHEAP KNOCK OFF SHIT.  YOU LOSE THE MONEY YOU SPENT ON THE SHITTY PRODUCT.

Power Estimates

** Remember that these are just estimates.  Each car is different.  Every car experiences what's known in the engineering world as tolerance stacking.  Each component on the vehicle is allowed to be within a certain tolerance.  IE the pistons are allowed to be between a and b, the compressor wheel on the turbo is allowed to be between c and d, the turbine wheel between e and f, the rods between g and h, etc etc etc for every component on the car.   Some cars will end up with a combination of all favorable tolerances, some will end up with average, some will end up will all poor, and a few will end up with the golden combo.  Also remember that things like wheels and tires play a big role.  They are rotating mass.  So if you are stage 2 and slap on some heavy 18 inch wheels and tires, your care will likely make less power than what's listed here.  **

- Stock  Baseline - 230-250 tq,  220-240whp depending on DAM, FLKC, etc

- Cobb Stage1 91oct OTS Map - 240-250tq, 230-240hp

- PhatBotti Stage1 Tune  260-270tq, 240-250hp

- TGVEGREBCS w/ Tune 265-275 tq 250-260hp

- Jpipe TGVEGREBCS w/ Tune 275-285 tq 255-265hp

- GS/PW TMIC J Pipe TGVEGREBCS w/ Tune 295-305tq 265-275hp

- GS/PW TMIC J Pipe TGVEGREBCS KB Header w/ Tune 305-315tq 275-285hp

- GS/PW TMIC J Pipe TGVEGREBCS KB EXT WG Header w/ Tune 310-320tq 285-295hp

- GS/PW TMIC J Pipe TGVEGREBCS w/ Flex Fuel Tune 350tq 355-365hp

- PRLFMIC J Pipe TGVEGREBCS KB HDR EXT WG Lower TGV w/ Flex Fuel Tune 350tq 400hp (aggressive map, you may meet Rod)

An easy way to guesstimate power potential based on turbo airflow is to add a 0 to the lb/min flow rate, that's the max crank hp the turbo can make based on how much air the turbo can flow.

Then if you want whp multiply by 0.8.  That's the ballpark each can make.        

REMEMBER THESE ARE BALLPARK GUESSTIMATES. 

stock turbo = 50 lb/min = 500chp = 400whp 

SoCal v3      = 57 lb/min = 570chp = 456whp (you will run into issues maxing out the MAF sensor)

FP Blue        = 58 lb/min = 580chp = 464whp  (you will run into issues maxing out the MAF sensor)

ETS 5858    = 62 ln/min = 620chp = 496whp

ETS 5862    = 64 lb/min = 640chp = 512whp
ETS 6062    = 68 lb/min = 680chp =  544whp
ETS 6262    = 70 lb/min = 700chp =  560whp
ETS 6266    = 80 lb/min = 800chp = 640whp
ETS 6466    = 90 lb/min = 900chp = 720whp
ETS 6766    = 93 lb/min =  930chp =  750whp

The Cobb AP is needed to be able to tune the car.  It is the electronic device that allows you to flash a tune to the ECU, change maps, adjust launch control, adjust flat foot shifting, monitor 6 gauges, and see check engine lights.

No, I do not tune EcuTek.

Flex fuel is the easiest and cheapest way to make power on these cars.  The car will easily pick up 60whp going from 91 octane to an e50 blend.  The stock fuel pump is not ethanol compatible and will eventually fail, so it needs to be replaced with a DW300c unit.  The DW300c should be installed utilizing the stock spacer and 2 orings. 

Yes, the AEM320 pump is also fine.

TGV deletes greatly reduce cruise and tip in knock.   TGV Deletes and EGR Deletes are 2 of the best mods for almost entirely getting rid of all cruise knock. These 2 mods really open up the intake manifold flow and reduce charge air temps by 70-100*. While you’re cruising at low load between 2000-5000 rpm the ECU is opening the Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve and injecting hot exhaust gas into the intake manifold. This causes a huge increase in the temperature in the manifold, which can be monitored via Intake Temp Manifold. This large increase in air temperature is one of the main causes of “cruise knock” and/or “tip in knock”. Since the charge air temperature is abnormally high it puts the car in a highly knock prone situation. If a very unfavorable situation occurs the car can pull a -8 to -10 FBKC due to the extremely high intake temps in the manifold.  

They also produce around 10-15whp across the whole powerband.  Should take 30-60 minutes to install.  Do these require a tune, yes.  Can I run my car with them without a tune, yes but you will have CEL's which may put you in limp mode.  Limp mode can cause the car to run rich and not drive correctly.  Best to coordinate with your tuner and have a map ready to load before you even begin the install.  Always best to have your tuner check logs post install to make sure you didn't induce a leak or cause a problem during the install.

Is brand important?  Yes, purchase the parts from the companies that do R&D and create the products.  Turn In Concepts (TIC) and IAG.  Don't support knock off companies.

EGR deletes help eliminate carbon buildup on the valves and they can also reduce charge air temps by up to 100*.  

EGR can just be unplugged.  Same as doing the deletes.   TGV Deletes and EGR Deletes are 2 of the best mods for almost entirely getting rid of all cruise knock. These 2 mods really open up the intake manifold flow and reduce charge air temps by 70-100*. While you’re cruising at low load between 2000-5000 rpm the ECU is opening the Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve and injecting hot exhaust gas into the intake manifold. This causes a huge increase in the temperature in the manifold, which can be monitored via Intake Temp Manifold. This large increase in air temperature is one of the main causes of “cruise knock” and/or “tip in knock”. Since the charge air temperature is abnormally high it puts the car in a highly knock prone situation. If a very unfavorable situation occurs the car can pull a -8 to -10 FBKC due to the extremely high intake temps in the manifold.  

Do these require a tune, yes.  Can I run my car with them without a tune, yes but you will have CEL's which may put you in limp mode.  Limp mode can cause the car to run rich and not drive correctly.  Best to coordinate with your tuner and have a map ready to load before you even begin the install.  Always best to have your tuner check logs post install to make sure you didn't induce a leak or cause a problem during the install.

Is brand important?  Yes, purchase the parts from the companies that do R&D and create the products.  Turn In Concepts (TIC) and IAG.  Don't support knock off companies.

After EGR delete install it is imperative to bleed the coolant system as you have introduced air bubbles which can cause overheating.

                     ***  Coolant bleeder – you must bleed your coolant after an EGR install  ***

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Burp-your-cars-cooling-system/?ALLSTEPS

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUpXgAJ1gjU

Basically put the funnel in, fill halfway with coolant, start car, let the car heat up until the fans turn on, then turn on heater, then blip throttle until bubbles stop. let car cool with funnel in place. Restart car and repeat one more time

In ranking of keeping contaminants out of the engine

1 - catch cans

2 - race/comp

3 - street

I usually recommend the Street for daily driven vehicles simply because it is a maintenance free item.  But from a performance standpoint of keeping oil and fuel vapors out of the engine, catch cans are ultimately the best solution. 

If you are running an upgraded turbo, then the comp/race setup or catch cans should be considered a requirement.   The increased crank pressure can cause the street aos valves to fail which can ultimately lead to engine failure.

AOS help eliminate carbon buildup on the valves.  Does an AOS require a tune, STREET no, RACE yes.  Always best to have your tuner check logs post install to make sure you didn't induce a leak or cause a problem during the install.

After AOS install it is imperative to bleed the coolant system as you have introduced air bubbles which can cause overheating.

All AOS’s suffer from “sludge”.  They attempt to prevent this by running coolant through the can to heat the system, but the return line is not heated.  When the temp drops below 40*, moisture will accumulate in the return line and then mix with the oil and form the sludge pictured below.  This sludge is extremely common in cold temperatures and even more prevalent when using e85.  Running an AOS requires you to check this and either clean or replace the hose.  Many people run 3,000 mile oil change intervals due to this sludge and fuel dilution, but I took my car out to 8,000 miles several times and the Used Oil Analysis always came back excellent.  

Coolant bleeder

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Burp-your-cars-cooling-system/?ALLSTEPS

basically put the funnel in, fill halfway with coolant, start car, let the car heat up until the fans turn on, then turn on heater, then blip throttle until bubbles stop. let car cool with funnel in place. Restart car and repeat one more time

The GS TMIC decrease the charge temps by 40-60* vs the stock tmic and can make 30-40whp more than the stock TMIC at high rpm.  GS TMIC works better than any other TMIC on the market.  Most other TMIC only cool the air marginally better than stock.  Grimmspeed is also made in the USA and has a lifetime warranty.  Can I run a TMIC without a tune, yes but you won't see any power gains.  The gains come from being able to increase the boost.  Best to coordinate with your tuner and have a map ready to load before you even begin the install.  Always best to have your tuner check logs post install to make sure you didn't induce a leak or cause a problem during the install.

Given the cost of the GS TMIC and PW VERT, it is best to just get a PRL FMIC.

The PRL FMIC should be used for extended abuse.  I prefer the PRL unit because it retains the stock o-ring on the turbo inlet.  And the charge air temps will only be 5-10 degrees over ambient temps.  Can I run a FMIC without a tune, yes but you won't see any power gains.  The gains come from being able to increase the boost.  Best to coordinate with your tuner and have a map ready to load before you even begin the install.  Always best to have your tuner check logs post install to make sure you didn't induce a leak or cause a problem during the install.

ETS FMIC are good too.

EBCS will produce a smoother boost curve and hold boost better in the midrange, thus picking up hp/tq through having a better and more consistent boost curve.  Should be considered a required mod...especially with a catless exhaust system.  Can I run an EBCS without a tune, yes if you stay out of boost.  Best to coordinate with your tuner and have a map ready to load before you even begin the install.  Always best to have your tuner check logs post install to make sure you didn't induce a leak or cause a problem during the install.

Cobb EBCS is good too.  I do not like the Perrin unit.

Intakes are mostly just noise makers on theses cars.  They can pick up 5-10hp when maxed out....but ultimately intakes make the AF Correction and Learning worse and are prone to getting moisture into the MAF extension cable which causes erratic fueling.  An intake would be one of the last mods I would buy.  I would put the money towards an intercooler or aos long before buying an intake.  Can I run an intake without a tune, this question varies for each intake as they all have different MAF scales.  The ECU can correct enough to run an intake without a tune out of boost.  Best to coordinate with your tuner and have a map ready to load before you even begin the install.  Always best to have your tuner check logs post install to make sure you didn't induce a leak or cause a problem during the install.

I prefer the Grimmspeed Intake because it has a stopper on the MAF sensor flange to butt the filter up against.  So everyone installs the filter in the same spot.  All other intakes have "floating" filters, meaning that each customer can install the filter in a different spot on the intake pipe....this causes fueling issues and makes troubleshooting more difficult.

AEM's intake has the worst box and will make your car lose power due to the intake temps.

Despite Boomba's bubble video, the stock bpv works perfectly fine.  The stock ones can leak, but it is not a common issue.  The stock bpv has been very reliable on stock turbo setups.  But if you must get one, the nameless or boomba seem to be the most reliable.  A BPV would be one of the last mods I would buy.  I would put the money towards an intercooler or aos long before buying a BPV.  Can I run a BPV without a tune, yes.  The BPV will only make a difference if your stock BPV was leaking really bad.  Best to coordinate with your tuner and have a map ready to load before you even begin the install.  Always best to have your tuner check logs post install to make sure you didn't induce a leak or cause a problem during the install.

A blow off valve should never be used on a Mass Air Flow fueled vehicle.  

A blow off valve simply decreases the performance of the vehicle.  The purpose of a bypass valve is to bypass the pressurized air when the throttle closes back to in front of the turbo to help keep the compressor wheel spinning during shifts.  

A blow off valve is taking this feature away.  So the turbo will spin down way more when shifting.  The other major downside to a blow off valve on a MAF based car is that it's releasing air that was measured by the MAF sensor...so when that air is released, it makes the car run rich because the ECU is still injecting fuel for air that's no longer there.  This will prematurely foul the plugs and make your gas mileage go down because you're just wasting fuel every time you let off the throttle.   

Racing on 91 octane is just asking for trouble. I highly recommend getting a race gas tune for track days. If you can't afford that then add in 4-5 gallons of 100 oct unleaded and fill the rest up with 91. The 100oct will add knock protection. Also, you should always race on a full tank to avoid fuel starvation.

http://newsroom.aaa.com/2016/07/aaa-not-gasoline-created-equal/